San Antonio – River Walk and the Alamo

The HMS Beagle left the port of Slidell Louisiana near New Orleans on Monday March 21.  After an over night stop in San Jacinto just east of Houston Texas (the latter being truly one of the ugliest cities known to humankind, at least as viewed from the endlessly-snaking I-10 through it), the Beagle pulled into harbour in San Antonio Texas on the evening of the 22nd.  San Antonio is perhaps most famous as the location of the Alamo, originally called Misión San Antonio de Valero. It was one of several missions established by the Spanish government in the early 18th century located along the San Antonio river as way-sations between the missions on the Rio Grande river and missions in eastern Texas.  Originally established in 1716, it was relocated to the current site in 1724 across the river from the town of San Antonio de Bexar and just north of a group of huts called La Villita. The name, Alamo, may have been derived from the grove of nearby cottonwood trees, known in Spanish as álamo.  In the 19th century the mission had been abandoned and it became a fort.

 

 

Today, the remains of the fort, once covering more than 3 acres, are confined mostly to the restored old mission church and some gardens and old stone walls.  The sight has become a shrine to those who lost their lives at the battle of the Alamo on March 6, 1836. Indeed the site is actually called a shrine and the rules for visitors are similar to those one would expect in a Catholic church.  The names of some of the “martyrs” haver become legend in America, including Jim Bowie and Davy Crocket.

 

 

The City of San Antonio has expended a good deal of effort (and money) to create the River Walk, in part a pleasant inner city sanctuary of tranquil tree lined paths by the river and in part a hub of tourist activity with restaurants, boat cruises and entertainment.  One gentleman reported that while stationed in San Antonio in the army in 1946, the Riverwalk was “off limits” to service men because of the potential for harm that could come to them in that quarter.  Today, the River Walk is a pleasant haven for tourists and has an active night life.

 

 

The Crew of the Beagle made its way to the River Walk in its leafy and cool precincts in the centre of town.  Along one of the bends in the river, the crew climbed the bank to the restored old Mexican village called La Villita, today a place of art galleries and high end shops (where, surprisingly, the Captain made no purchases), with the buildings restored to something approximating their original state.  It is an historic location where General Cos of the Mexican army ceded the territory to the Texans in 1835. This was not honoured by General Santa Ana which led to the battle of the Alamo in 1836.

 

 

While meandering along the River Walk, Mr Darwin brought to the attention of the crew the many ducks in the river and along the shore. These ducks had obviously become habituated to the presence of humans and the food they often dispensed, and were prepared to greet us at close hand.  Of course Mr. Darwin, being of the canine persuasion, found the close proximity to ducks quite exciting, making his feelings known in loud exclamations and a strong desire to get into the river with his new friends.

 

 

As the time for the mid-day meal drew nigh, the Captain allowed the crew to take its repast at a riverside cafe where there was some separation between the table and the river so that the proximity of ducks might be attenuated.  However, the Captain did not initially appreciate that the ducks were fully prepared to climb whatever terraces and walls there were in order to approach a table that might be a source of food.   Mr. Darwin, a very gracious gentleman, exhibited restraint and allowed a certain amount of encroachment by ducks as he was enjoying his meal (and a good part of the meals of the other crew members).

 

A post prandial walk brought the crew to the precincts of the Alamo where the Captain and Master Chaffers separately toured the inside of the building and the inner gardens, while Mr. Darwin remained outside in quiet discussion with locals and tourists alike.  The area immediately around the Alamo also has historic significance and includes the Menger Hotel, where Theodore Roosevelt recruited his Rough Riders and where the first successful demonstration of barbed wire took place, thus opening up the west to domesticated cattle and far more lucrative ranching operations.  Prior to this time, the long horned cattle, descendants of cattle imported by the Spanish, that roamed the west would be rounded up and driven to markets, just like we’ve all seen in dozens of old westerns.  

 

 

The crew continued on its tour of the town, including the old central square and church where the remains of the martyrs of the Alamo now rest.  The day was sunny and warm and, after several hours of perambulation, we returned to the Beagle for a restful evening.

 

 

A few memories of the crew are set in the montage below.